I went to Jordan expecting camels and ruins. I left with sunburn in places I didn’t know could burn, a newfound respect for goats, and a serious mansaf addiction. Here’s everything I wish someone had told me before I showed up at Queen Alia Airport with zero dinars and way too much confidence.
Visa on Arrival vs. Jordan Pass
Most nationalities (US, UK, EU, Canada, Australia) get a visa on arrival at Queen Alia International Airport for 40 JD (about $56 USD). Cash or card, valid for 30 days, single entry.
But here’s the move: if you’re staying at least 3 nights and hitting Petra, buy the Jordan Pass online before you fly. It comes in three tiers — Wanderer ($99, 1-day Petra), Explorer ($106, 2-day Petra), and Expert ($113, 3-day Petra). It waives that 40 JD visa fee entirely and throws in entry to over 40 sites including Jerash and Wadi Rum. Do the math on your itinerary and it basically pays for itself. I did the Explorer tier and don’t regret a single dinar.
Getting Around Without Going Broke
JETT is the tourist bus company and your best budget friend. Amman to Petra runs about 230km, takes 3.5-4 hours, and costs roughly 10-11 JD ($14-16 USD) one way, leaving Amman around 6:30am. Book a day ahead if you can — I didn’t, and stood around the station looking pathetic until a seat opened up.
Renting a car gives you way more freedom (think King’s Highway detours) for about 25-30 JD/day ($35-42) plus fuel. Just know that Jordanian drivers treat lane markings as more of a suggestion.
Amman: Chaotic, Hilly, and Worth a Few Days
Amman is built on hills, which sounds charming until you’re hauling a backpack up one at 35°C. The Roman Theatre and Amman Citadel downtown both charge small entrance fees, typically somewhere in the 1-3 JD range each (about $1.50-4) — listings vary a bit, so just carry small bills. The Citadel gives you sweeping views over the whole city plus the Temple of Hercules ruins, and the Theatre seats 6,000 — climb to the top row for the best photo angle.
Rainbow Street is where you go in the evening for rooftop cafes and people-watching. Downtown (Al-Balad) is where you go for chaos, spice markets, and cheap, excellent food.
Jerash: The Roman City Everyone Skips
Jerash sits about 48km north of Amman and honestly gets slept on compared to Petra. Entrance is 12 JD (about $17), included free if you’ve got the Jordan Pass. A minibus from Amman’s North Station costs about 1 JD and takes 45-60 minutes (though it leaves whenever it’s full, so patience required). A taxi runs roughly 10-15 JD one way if you’d rather skip the wait.
The colonnaded Oval Plaza here is genuinely one of the best-preserved Roman sites I’ve seen anywhere, and there’s rarely a crowd.
Petra: Yes, It’s Worth the Hype
Petra tickets depend on your visitor status. If you’re staying overnight in Jordan: 1-day is 50 JD (about $70), 2-day is 55 JD (about $78), 3-day is 60 JD (about $85). If you’re day-tripping in from Israel or Egypt without an overnight stay, it jumps to 90 JD (about $127) — so plan your itinerary accordingly, this one hurts if you get it wrong.
Get there for opening (6am) and walk the 1.2km Siq before the tour groups arrive. Coming face to face with the Treasury with basically nobody around hits different than seeing it on Instagram, trust me.
The Monastery Hike Is a Must
Don’t stop at the Treasury. The hike up to the Monastery (Ad Deir) is roughly 800 rock-cut steps, about an hour of climbing depending on your pace, but it’s quieter and honestly more impressive once you’re standing in front of it. Bring more water than you think you need — the donkey guys along the trail will absolutely try to sell you a ride, and if your legs are dying, honestly, no shame in it.
Petra by Night
This one’s a separate ticket — 30 JD (about $42) as of the current schedule — and isn’t covered by the Jordan Pass or your day ticket. Runs Sunday to Thursday, 8:30-10:30pm. You walk the candlelit Siq to the Treasury for music and storytelling. It’s touristy, sure, but sitting in the dark in front of that facade is still a moment. (Prices and schedules for this shift occasionally, so confirm at the Visitor Centre when you arrive.)
Wadi Rum: Where I Lost My Sense of Time
Entrance to the protected area is 5-7 JD (about $7-10), waived with the Jordan Pass. A jeep tour covering the highlights — sand dunes, Lawrence’s Spring, rock bridges — runs about 3-5 hours with a Bedouin driver who definitely knows this desert better than any GPS ever could, starting around 45 JD (about $63) per person.
Sleeping in a Bedouin Camp
Overnight camp packages (jeep tour, dinner, breakfast, tent) average around 60 JD (about $85) per person through tour operators, but if you book direct with a smaller local camp, basic tents run closer to $20-40 a night. Camel rides are extra — 15 JD ($21) per hour. Skip the phone signal, lie back, and look up. If you’re lucky and it’s a clear night, the stargazing alone justifies the trip.
The Dead Sea: Floating Like an Idiot
Don’t shave beforehand. Don’t get water in your eyes. Don’t ask me how I learned either of those lessons.
Amman Beach, the public option, charges around 20 JD (about $28) entry. Resort day passes (Mövenpick and similar) run closer to 35 JD (roughly $50, sometimes more at higher-end resorts) but include a buffet lunch and nicer facilities. It’s about 60km and an hour’s drive from Amman. A JETT round-trip bus runs about 12 JD (about $17) if you’re doing it without a car.
Aqaba and the Red Sea
If you’ve got extra days, Aqaba is a solid add-on — snorkeling, diving, and a much more relaxed vibe than the rest of the country. It’s also your gateway to Wadi Rum if you’re coming from that direction instead of Amman.
Local Food You Cannot Skip
Mansaf
This is Jordan’s national dish and a serious honor to be served — lamb cooked in a fermented yogurt sauce called jameed, served over rice. Eat it with your right hand if you want bonus points with locals. A plate at a casual local restaurant typically runs 6-12 JD (about $8-17); dedicated mansaf houses can charge more for the full multi-hour experience.
Falafel, Hummus, and Fuul
Breakfast of champions. A single falafel sandwich from a street stall costs well under 1 JD. Hashem Restaurant in downtown Amman has been serving this stuff for over 50 years — order the full spread (falafel, hummus, bread, pickles) and expect to pay around 3-5 JD (about $4-7).
Knafeh
A hot, cheesy, syrup-soaked dessert that sounds wrong and tastes incredible. Don’t overthink it, just order it.
Shawarma and Street Snacks
Available literally everywhere, day or night, and cheap. Get it with extra garlic sauce, don’t @ me.
Bedouin Tea and Mint Lemonade
Sweet, sage-heavy tea offered constantly in Wadi Rum — say yes every time, it’s rude not to. Mint lemonade is the unofficial national drink of surviving the heat.
What I Actually Spent Per Day
Budget backpacker mode (dorms, buses, street food, no private tours): roughly $45-65/day. Mid-range (private rooms, occasional taxi, a guided tour or two): $90-130/day. Petra and Wadi Rum entrance fees are basically unavoidable fixed costs regardless of budget style, so factor those in separately.
Safety and Practical Notes for 2026
Jordan’s tourist zones — Amman, Petra, Wadi Rum, the Dead Sea, Aqaba — have continued operating normally through 2026 despite regional tensions elsewhere in the Middle East. Some government advisories (including the US) have bumped Jordan’s travel level up a notch this year, and areas near the Syrian and Iraqi borders are best avoided. None of that really touched the tourist corridor when I was there, but check your own government’s current advisory before you book, since this can shift.
Dress modestly outside resort areas (shoulders and knees covered goes a long way), and always carry your passport — you’ll need it at ticket counters.
Sample 8-Day Backpacker Route
- Day 1-2: Amman (Citadel, Roman Theatre, Rainbow Street)
- Day 3: Jerash day trip
- Day 4: JETT bus to Petra, afternoon at the Treasury
- Day 5: Full day Petra, Monastery hike, Petra by Night
- Day 6: Transfer to Wadi Rum, jeep tour, overnight camp
- Day 7: Wadi Rum sunrise, transfer to Dead Sea
- Day 8: Float, fly out from Amman
FAQs
Is Jordan expensive to backpack? More than Southeast Asia, less than Western Europe. Entrance fees to Petra and Wadi Rum are the real budget-eaters — everything else (food, local transport) is reasonably cheap.
Do I need the Jordan Pass? If you’re staying 3+ nights and visiting Petra, almost always yes — it saves money and skips the visa fee.
How many days do I need for Petra? Two full days minimum. One for the Treasury and main trail, one for the Monastery hike.
Is Wadi Rum worth an overnight stay? Yes. The stars alone are worth it — this isn’t a place you rush through in an afternoon.
Can I drink the tap water? Stick to bottled water to be safe, it’s cheap and available everywhere.
Is Jordan safe to visit right now? Tourist areas have remained open and operational through 2026, though it’s worth checking your government’s current travel advisory before you go, since the regional situation has shifted a few times this year.